Guitar Chasers

If you’re new to guitar playing one of the first solid lessons you’ll learn is that a guitar string can poke a hole clear through your finger with no effort required on your part other than touching the end of the string. Should you be fortunate enough to never experience this unpleasant event (I doubt it), you still need to be aware of the hazards, and never let children put their busy little fingers anywhere near the tuners.

There are a few important considerations before purchasing the new strings. *You should know which gauge strings the axe is currently wearing. *You should decide whether you want lighter or heavier gauge strings, or the same. *You should understand that changing strings will likely NOT fix most playing problems you may be experiencing. *New strings can remain usable for one day or one year depending on how often you play and the climate in your part of the world. Perspiration is also a major factor. Most busy guitarists change strings once or twice a month, and the really busy ones change strings for every performance. *If you don’t know which gauge strings are on the guitar, take the axe along with you to the music store and let their experts enlighten you. *Changing string gauge may cause problems that will surface immediately, or can gradually creep up on you. If you change gauge in either direction, a truss rod adjustment and bridge saddle adjustment will probably be necessary. Acoustic guitars can handle a string gauge change with no ill effects more easily than an electric guitar, but there are no guarantees. Just be sure to stay attuned to any changes in the guitar’s behavior after the string change and quickly make the necessary adjustments. If the action begins rising or falling, the truss rod should first be adjusted (this is assuming that the action was o.k. before the string change). Heavier gauge strings will pull the neck upwards causing the action to become higher, lighter gauge strings will allow the neck to bow backwards, lowering action and causing string rattle. Over time the guitar becomes unplayable. Make the adjustments soon, or switch back to the original string gauge.

Most guitars can accommodate a change of gauge one degree larger or smaller with no problems; again, no guarantee. When changing to a heavier set there is the possibility that the guitar’s nut may not be slotted large enough for the strings. This will cause the string to bind in the slot (tuning problems), or it can cause the string to sit too high in the groove (imbalanced action). Heavier gauge strings will also pull the bridge plate up on tremolo equipped guitars, possibly topping out the plate. The opposite happens with lighter gauge strings. You may be required to add or remove one of the tremolo springs in order to bring the bridge plate angle to within its correct range.

It is best to change one string at a time while the old strings remain on the axe in standard tuning. This causes the least amount of stress on the neck and whammy setup and keeps new string tension constantly increasing until it reaches correct pitch. Make every effort to avoid sharp bends or kinks in the new string, and keep the windings around the tuner post neat and smoothly butted up against each other in one layer; no criss crossing of the winding, or tuning stability will suffer.guitar headstock and tuning keys

Light gauge strings (9’s or smaller) are thin and pliable enough to slip on the tuning post and come loose, even if you have a few wraps around the post. You may want to “lock” the strings to prevent slippage. To lock a string, take the free end of the string and loop it around the tuning post backward 1/2 wrap, slip it under the string (where the string enters the hole), loop it back over the string at this point. This creates a “noose” for the string at the post and prevents slipping. This should only be necessary for the plain (unwound) strings. Before bending the string to lock, make sure there is enough free slack in the string to allow at least three wraps around the post when tuned to pitch.

Here’s how I determine the amount of free slack: After inserting the string in the tuner hole, pull the string taut from the middle of the neck while allowing the string to slip back through the post (maintain resistance with your hand…at the tuner). The ball end should be in its correct nesting. Pull the string (at mid-neck) up to a point three inches to six inches above the fretboard (string apex). Heavy strings will require about four to seven inches of slack; thin strings will require four inches or less slack. This should be enough slack to lay three wraps or more around the tuning post. Now apply the noose or simply bend the free end firmly against the post at the hole exit (bend it backwards). You may want to put another bend in the free end an inch or so beyond the tuner so that it (free end, sharp steel) sticks straight up in the air (erect). This prevents the free end from hanging up on the other strings and tuners as it spins around (as you tune up). Don’t be surprised if blood appears during any of these routines. I try to keep the string taut during the entire procedure; it takes a little finesse but greatly enhances the pleasure of changing a string.

While still keeping the string taut, extend your index finger upon the top side of the string (pointing the finger toward the tuners) and keeping the string cradled in your other three fingers. The index finger can easily apply pressure upon the string. You can also twist the wrist a bit and increase or decrease the tautness of the string. Now, with finger still resting atop the string, slide your hand down the string to the point that has your fingertip just between the nut and the tuner (maintaining tension). Your index finger is now in position to “feed” the string onto the lower part of the tuning post. Feeding the string from an angle lower than the nut will result in even, clean wraps. Once again, the string tension is maintained the entire time you are turning the tuning key. Vary tension and slack by twisting the wrist. The fingers cradling the string can be wiggled as necessary to prevent any kinks at this position (apex).

Once the string is tight enough to rest in the nut, clip the excess off at the tuning post with wire cutters. Leave about one eighth of an inch or more sticking out at the end and press it cleanly into a safe spot against the post. Use caution. Now tune the string to pitch.

Locking tuners solve the problem of slippage by actually clamping the string to the tuning post. With locking tuners you only need one wrap or less around the post (but at least one half a wrap) when tuned to pitch.

Locking tremolo systems have their own unique quirks. Some locking trem systems require the removal of the string’s ball end (snip it off with dykes). The plain end of the string is clamped at the bridge by a small vise and secured by tightening a screw. *There may not be enough distance between the locking nut and the tuner to easily slip the low e string through the hole in the tuner. Needle nosed pliers are the tool to use.